The BubbleBox 1.0 is a digital controller for platform fighters and other games:
This project is licensed under the Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International. Please check out the license.txt file to learn how you are allowed to use the files, and check out https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/deed.en for more information.
Unceremonious link to the UMS Ultra Discord server
To update the firmware on a BubbleBox, hold the Start button when you plug into your computer to boot it into it's firmware flashing mode. It will show up in your file explorer as a storage device like a USB Flash drive. When plugging in a new Pico into a computer for the first time, it will automatically boot in it's firmware flashing mode.
If your controller or doesn't boot into it's firmware mode under those conditions, hold the white "Bootsel" button on the Pico itself when plugging it in.
Once it's in the Firmware mode and you can access it's storage, simply drag and drop the firmware.uf2 file onto it. It's exactly like putting something on a USB Flash Drive.
When done successfully, the LED on the Pico should glow Green:
And your computer will make the noise that it makes when you plug in a new device. When this happens, the process is done and the controller is reflashed.
To check that your controller is being recognized as a controller, hit Win+R and run joy.cpl to open the USB Game Controller setup window:
And if you see "Pico" show up as a device, you've done it correctly.
If not, who knows where you biffed it.
To use Haybox firmware on Dolphin and Slippi, I recommend checking out Haystacks guide on the Haybox repo. At least until I get around to making one myself.
Haybox Firmware supports a wide variety of consoles, most of which it detects and sets automagically on it's own. When plugging into a PC, Wii, Gamecube, or N64, it should just work.
But, to use on the Nintendo Switch, you have to hold 'X' on plug in. This is also required to work on a Brook Wingman.
Haybox Firmware is pretty unique in that you can swap between controller game modes on the fly without having to hold anything on plug in. Instead, at any point when the controller is plugged in, you can hit any of these 3-Button combinations to swap between modes.
- Mod X + Start + L - Melee Mode
- Mod X + Start + Left - Project M/Project+ Mode
- Mod X + Start + Down - Smash Ultimate Mode
- Mod X + Start + Right - Tradition Fighter Mode (Not Capcom Legal since the rule change, update coming soon)
- Mod X + Start + B - Rivals of Aether Mode (Works as the Rushdown Revolt mode too)
- Mod Y + Start + L - Default Keyboard Mode
And for the version of the Firmware that I provide, I include my custom Guilty Gear Strive keyboard mode.
- Mod Y + Start + Right - Strive Keyboard Mode
By Default, the Melee mode is selected. Except when plugging in to a Switch where it Defaults to the Smash Ultimate mode.
The BubbleBox uses a Layout that is very similar to a B0XX, Frame1, LBX, or SmashSlab. I refer to controllers with these layouts as having the "Standard" layout.
The BubbleBox uses a modified version of the Haybox firmware made by JonnyHaystack. Haybox has a lot of lovely features, and can be used on PC, Linux, N64, Gamecube, Wii, Switch, and through Gamecube Controller Adapters on things like the Wii-U. It is a very modular firmware that, with very low coding knowledge, can be endlessly customized and tweaked. While it doesn't have runtime Remapping, changing the pinouts to remap buttons is very straight forward. There are also a lot more pre-made game modes for games like Nickelodeon All Star Brawl, MultiVersus, and other platform and fighting games that just need to be bound to a 3-Button combination. For a more more information on how to customizing the Firmware to your own liking, check out the full Haybox github repository.
Haybox firmware supports 2 extra buttons for Select and Home which is very useful for games where they are important. Like most fighting games that have training modes. Because the normal Gamecube Controller doesn't actually those 2 buttons, they are bound to D-Pad Left and Right which are save and reset in Uncle Punch when in the Melee mode.
Outside of the Haybox Firmware which empowers digital features, the BubbleBox on it's own has been designed to be very modular and very simple to assemble. While it does still require soldering to wire everything up, which can be a bit daunting for people who haven't done it before, the case and keycaps can all be made on any home 3D printer with a build volume of at least 12in/310mm x 6in/150mm. A split case design that can be made on a Prusa Mini or Ender 3 is being worked on.
The large amount of Modularity in the Design also means that versions with different button layouts are very easy to produce, and I intend to make premade print files to support a wide Variety of hand types and layouts. The only limiting factor is that, for now, firmware that supports these layouts is a little more advanced to make and those are skills I currently lack. One of the biggest requests for customizations is the addition of a "W" key, a second Up Key in the same layout as WASD/Arrow keys on a keyboard, and is being worked on. Another big plus to my files modularity and simplicity, is that left handed versions are also very easy to produce for the people out there born with that very unfortunate disability. As such, every version of the Bubble Box will include Left handed versions. Completely Ambidextrous versions get a bit more tricky, but are still technically possible.
The BubbleBox 1.0 uses hotswap sockets for the keyboard switches that allows the user to quickly and easily remove and replace said keyboard switches. Very handy, and very nice for those keyboard nuts out there that like ever switch to be hand lubed with there owl gold plated 63gram springs or whatever. Go ham. Get your Thock.
Because of the orientation the BubbleBox prints in, making reliable sockets without a separate switch plate for the switches to mount into is a little tricky. But I have solved this using some special print geometry that forces a slicer to use better bridges to get the surface of the socket to print without supports.
However, with a printer that doesn't print bridges very well, it can ruin a case. Thankfully most printers nowadays can do it no problem, with little to no tuning. But, included in the files is a test piece that you can print out and inspect to make sure your slicer profile is correct and your printer is up to the task. Make sure you check out the recommended print settings too. The case and the keycaps where designed to be printed with a 4mm nozzle and a .2mm layer height. The Nozzle Size is probably fine to be adjusted, but for the Case, it's the layer height that is crucial to the special print geometry.
Alternatively, there are versions of the case that do not include these inverted sockets. They forego the main body of the switch socket, and leave the button of the switches and their pins bare inside the case. You can still use the hotswap sockets because it makes soldering easier and retains the ability to easily remove switches.
The socketless version of the BubbleBox is also compatible with Low Profile Gateron switches. If you use these though, you will probably need different hot swap sockets because the normal MX style hot swap sockets are the wrong size and you'd really have to jam em on to get it to work.
The BubbleBox uses is the USB-C port from the Bird-D Breakout board. It is compatible pretty much any normal USB-C Cable to plug into PC or Switch, and it is compatible with USB-C to Gamecube cables to plug into Gamecube, Wii, and GCC adapters. It is also compatible with Smash64 through a USB-C to N64 cable if that's your thing.
The first version of the BubbleBox is design to print out in one single piece. These are called the Mono-case versions, and come in right or left handed, and with or without switch sockets:
- Mono-case Standard Right Handed BubbleBox with Switch Sockets
- Mono-case Standard Right Handed BubbleBox without Switch Sockets
- Mono-case Standard Left Handed BubbleBox with Switch Sockets
- Mono-case Standard Left Handed BubbleBox without Switch Sockets
There's also the WASD Version, adds an extra button above the Down key that transforms the layout to a WASD/Arrow Keys/Mixbox style of controller:
- Mono-case WASD Right Handed BubbleBox with Switch Sockets
- Mono-case WASD Right Handed BubbleBox without Switch Sockets
- Mono-case WASD Left Handed BubbleBox with Switch Sockets
- Mono-case WASD Left Handed BubbleBox without Switch Sockets
And a Split Case variant that are designed to fit in machines with as small as 180mm² print beds like that of the Prusa Mini or Ender 3. If your printer has a build plate that is 180mm² or bigger, it will fit these pieces and the entire BubbleBox can be printed in 4 prints:
- Split-case Standard Right Handed BubbleBox with Switch Sockets
- Split-case Standard Left Handed BubbleBox with Switch Sockets
- Split-case WASD Right Handed BubbleBox with Switch Sockets
- Split-case WASD Left Handed BubbleBox with Switch Sockets
Techincally speaking, even the largest of the components is only actually 170mm by 140mm so if there are any printers out there with a size that fits that, it should work. Maybe.
- Upcoming versions with extra 15-30 degree cant between the top and bottom rows for better ergonomics. Maybe. We'll see.
In this repo you'll find print files for my variation of 3D Printable Keycaps. There are 3 Styles right now: Round, Hex, and Square. Round is the most standard, Hex is nice for pressing multiple buttons with one finger, and Square is just kinda neat. To fully equip a full BubbleBox, you will need 22 total for Round and Hex, and for the Square you will need 15 20mm Square, and 7 of the Truncated Square or 19mm Square keycaps for the thumb clusters as those keys come closer together than any of the other ones and will rub if you use the full sized keycaps. You will also want to print a few extras, incase any break during heavy use or come off the printer weak.
You can also Mix 'N Match as you please.
The stems require a high degree of dimensional accuracy, make sure your printer is not over extruding at all or you're going to have a bad time.
These keycap designs are Flat Faced with a chamfilleted edges (Half chamfered, Half Filleted for 3D printing reasons), which some people might not not find to their liking. Any MX compatible keycaps should work if you do not want to print these and are into that style. I plan to offer convex and concave keycaps too, but they are difficult to print on a hobby-grade printer. I have further plans to make versions that could be professionally printed in Nylon or Resin from JLC or wherever.
The Square Truncated keycaps come with one side shortened are designed to be installed in such a way to allow more vertical distance between the A & C-Up Buttons, and the C-Down & C-Left Buttons.
I dunno why, but the B0XX, Frame 1, and LBX all do this for some reason. Some say this extra distance can be more comfortable for some people, so I included them as an option. Some people fine this helps them not accidentally press A at the same time as any of the Cstick buttons.
- 9x M3x6mm Button Head Cap Screws
- 9x M3 Initeq Heatset Threaded Inserts (Other inserts can work too, but ymmv)
- 2x M3x4mm Button Head Cap Screws or Socket Head Cap Screws
- 2x M2x6mm Socket Head Cap Screws or Button Head Cap Screws
- 2x M2 In-Sail Heatset Threaded Inserts (Optional)
For the Split-Case versions, you will need some additional hardware:
- +2x M3x16mm Button Head Cap Screws
- +2x M3x8mm Button Head Cap Screws (Can be substituted for x1 6mm and x1 12mm if needed)
- +4 M3 Initeq Heaset Threaded Inserts
- 1x Raspberry Pi Pico
- 1x Bird-D USB-C Breakout Board
- 25ft/8m approx. of 22/24/30awg Soft-core Wire. Solid-core works too but can be harder to work with.
- 1x Bottle of Medium/Thick CyanoAcrylate Glue (C.A. Glue or just Super Glue)
- 22-23x Gateron Hotswap Sockets (Kailh might work, I haven't tested), or Low Profile Gateron Hotswap Sockets if using low profile switches in a socketless BubbleBox
- 22-23x MX Style Switches of your choice
- 22-23x Printed Keycaps or Other Keycaps of your choice
- 1x BubbleBox Case
- 1x Case Bottom Panel
- Soldering Iron, to solder and insert heatset threaded inserts, threaded insert soldering iron tips to insert the threaded inserts is helpful but optional
- Wire Strippers or Utility Knife & Wire Cutters, to cut and strip wires
- 2mm and 1.5mm Hex Wrench, to screw screws
- Keyboard Switch Puller, to pull the keyboard switches if you need to
- Small Needle Nose Pliers or Tweezers, to tweeze and plie as needed. Useful for inserting the hotswap sockets and holding wires when soldering
- Helping Hands can help with soldering wires if you need them
As mentioned above, the files are made to print with a .4mm nozzle at a .2mm layer height. I print in Polymaker ABS and ASA at with 265C nozzle and 110C bed. You really need to make sure your first layers are tuned in, and that large prints aren't going to warp on your printer. I pretty much exclusively print in ABS and ASA, so anything else like PLA and PETG may work but is "Your Milage May Very" and you gotta watch out for warping if a case printed in less heat-resistant materials. Materials like these will likely be ruined if left in direct sunlight or in a car on a hot day.
The Split-Case BubbleBox comes in 5 pieces, 2 for the main controller Body, and 3 for the Bottom Panel.
If Building a Split Case variant, now is the time to install the 4 extra Heatset Threaded Inserts in the Following locations:
And from the side:
If Building a Split Case variant, you should screw them together now. Now you need the x2 M3x16 and x2 M3x8mm screws in the following locations:
The one screw by the Pico mount is a bit of a pain, but necessary given the space constraints.
If you need to, you can substitute the two M3x8mm screws for one M3x6mm and one M3x12mm screw. There is tolerance.
The Split Case Bottom Panel comes in 3 pieces, and need to be glued together. IT IS EASY TO GLUE THE WRONG SIDES TOGETHER (because I forgot to add keying but eh maybe next time), So you have to make absolutely sure your pieces are on the correct sides. Take note of the Post locations:
The 9 M3s go into the 4 along the top, the 4 Along the Bottom, and the one in the Center.
The 2 M2s go into the posts with the larger holes to mount the Pico.
If you're not using threaded inserts to help mount the Pico, the 2 posts with Smaller holes are sized to directly accept the M2 screws. Just don't screw them too tight or you'll strip the plastic. Less than 0.1 Uggas of torque is required to keep the Pico in place.
Yes there are two things called sockets, blame Gateron and Kailh for that. Every switch socket needs a hotswap socket super glued into the 2 holes. They need to be in the right orientation or the hotswap sockets will prevent the switches from being installed
I typically run this wire from pin 8 to pin 33 across the backside of the Pico. I do not understand why, but people smarter than me say it's important for magic electricity reasons.
Shown here with a slightly exaggerated wire so you can see the labels on the Pico going AGND to GND. I typically run it like this, across the back, but with just a straight short wire. You can run it across the top if you find it more convenient.
I typically run about 5-6in/120mm-150mm lengths of wire to connect the Pico and the Bird-D Breakout Board. There are 6 total connections you will need to make.
- TP2 on the Pico to D- on the Bird-D
- TP3 on the Pico to D+ on the Bird-D
- GP28 on the Pico to GCD/D3V on the Bird-D
- VBUS on the Pico to 5V on the Bird-D
- VSYS on the Pico to VYSYS on the Bird-D
- GND(I use pin 38 or 33) on the Pico to GND on the Bird-D
When done correctly it should look something like this:
At this point, it is good to check that everything is working by plugging into your PC through the freshly installed USB-C port. If it's a new Pico, then it should register as a storage device on your computer. If you haven't done so already, now is a good time to install the firmware using the guide at the top of this readme.
These will run from the Numbered GPIO Pins on the Pico, to one side of their respective hot swap socket. These wire lengths are slightly over sized, so you have a little bit of wiggle room, and so you can trim them later if you want to.
1. Solder 8in/200mm length wire to pins GP17(Up), GP18(MS), and GP5(L/LT)
2. Solder 7in/175mm length wire to pins GP19(Z/RB), GP20(LS), GP1(Up2) and GP4(Left)
3. Solder 6in/150mm length wire to pins GP21(X), GP22(Y), and GP3(Down)
4. Solder 5in/125mm length wire to pins GP27(R/RT), GP26(B), and GP2(Right), and GP10(Select)
5. Solder 4in/100mm length wire to pins GP16(C-Right), and GP11(Home)
6. Solder 3in/75mm length wire to pins GP6(ModX), and GP7(ModY)
7. Solder 2in/50mm length wire to pins GP14(A), GP12,(C-Up), GP13(C-Left), and GP0(Start)
8. Solder 1in/25mm length wire to pins GP15(C-Down)
Once every wire is soldering onto every relevant pin on the Pico, you can do some wire management, screw the Pico onto it's mount, trim any excess length of wire you desire for aesthetics or to ease routing, and solder ever wire to one side of its buttons hotswap socket. Making extra damn sure you don't trim the wrong wire or solder any wires to the wrong switches because at this point it'll be a pain in the ass to fix it.
I use 2x 5in/125mm lengths of wire for reaching between Right and Mod X, and between Mod Y and C-Down. Then 19x 3in/75mm lengths of wire between every other switch, and 1x 3in/75mm length of wire between GND pin 23 and the ground side of the Mod Y socket.
You have to make sure to orient them correctly otherwise you will mash up the pins on the switches. Once they are installed, you can install the keycaps.
Once you verify everything is functioning, you're done constructing your BubbleBox!
When resting the controller on your lap, you might find that with bare plastic it's a bit slick and slips around. The entire controller will probably weigh less than a pound, as all of mine do, so you're not getting any help there either. You have a couple options though. So far, my #1 recommended solution if you're doing this at home is to get some 8x12 sheets of adhesive EVA Foam Paper, and cut out a sheet that fits the bottom panel, and slap it on the bottom. I use this material for my controllers, except I laser cut it.
Alternatively, you could also get some phone grip tape or other rubbery grip tapes. This is generally a soft-ish rubber material (not like skateboard sandpaper grip tape, unless you're into that I suppose). I find this doesn't work as well as the EVA Foam, but it's another option. Here is a photo of one of my First BubbleBoxes with some adhesive cellphone grippy pad things.
Haybox Firmware from Haystack the Goat
Hadoe and Crane for the Bird-D USB-C Breakout Board
Cranes Lab Discord server