The BudgeTangl is not compatible with the DIDIY board, the goal of this case is to be as cheap as possible which means using very few layers of material. Because it is so thin the DIDIY board will not fit. Please use the DIDIY case if you are building a controller using one of my DIY kits.
The BudgeTangl is a budget oriented case design for a rectangle controller using the HTangl layout.
I originally designed it to be built entirely out of laser cut 3mm acrylic but you could use any material you want, MDF works particularly well and is a little bit cheaper.
There is very little room inside the case with only 2 middle layers so you will have to be wary of that and route your wires carefully.
- Switchplate (3mm)
- 2x 3mm Middle Layers OR 1 x 6mm middle layer
- Bottom Layer (3 mm)
The top layer (faceplate) is OPTIONAL
Also note there are alternate switch plate and top layer files if you would like switch holes for Select/Home buttons, if you only want the Start button use the normal switch plate and top layer files.
You will need at least 6mm of room in the middle for all of the wiring, and the pico/arduino to fit so if you're using 3mm panels you'll need 2 middle layers and then a switchplate and bottom panel at the very minimum. You could also use a single 1/4in (6mm) panel for the middle layer and then a 3mm switch plate and bottom panel. There are many different ways you can configure your case and these are just a few examples. I have also included files for an optional top panel if you'd like the switches to sit lower in the case, this is not necessary but some people don't like the look of the switch sticking up high above the top of the case.
You can send the DXF files in this repository to a laser cutting company like SendCutSend to get them cut. joeyorton#7970 on my Discord also cuts these and sells kits including hardware and a model ud, DM him for details.
The middle layers are cut to accept a Model UD. It's a dedicated USB C port that you wire your pico/arduino to which allows for the use of USBC to GC cables. You can buy them directly from a PCB manufacturer like JLCPCB or from me on Etsy.
For hardware you will need 6 M5 weld nuts and 6 M5 screws, the length of screw needed depends on what material you decide to use and how many layers you use.
For example if you are using 4 layers of 3mm acrylic then 10mm screws will work perfectly.
You can get screws and weld nuts from McMaster Carr or Amazon, I also sell them in individual packs on my Etsy shop.
Here's some links to the needed hardware:
McMaster Screws
10mm - https://www.mcmaster.com/94792A123/
12mm - https://www.mcmaster.com/94792A124/
16mm - https://www.mcmaster.com/94792A125/
Mcmaster Weld Nuts
https://www.mcmaster.com/90594a320/
Amazon Screws
10mm - https://amazon.com/dp/B088FH9MND
12mm - https://amazon.com/dp/B08F7LK66D
16mm - https://amazon.com/dp/B07NVC2ZTP
Amazon Weld Nuts
https://amazon.com/dp/B07H57TRN4
This repository is licensed under the CERN Open Hardware License Version 2 - Strongly Reciprocal. Please read the license in this repository and visit https://ohwr.org/cernohl for more information. This license allows you to make a modified or unmodified version of this case for yourself or to sell provided you follow the guidelines of the license. The strongly reciprocal version of the license I have chosen requires that you use this same license if you decide to make modifications to any of the files in this repository.